By Nick Filipidis
As a restaurant owner (with a totally different format), I regard the Acropolis as, without a doubt, the finest Greek restaurant in town.
Jimmy Avgerinos and his family recently remodeled their restaurant, at 4714 Eastern Avenue in Greektown. The atmosphere is warm and formal without being stuffy. But the atmosphere is secondary to the food.
Avgerinos came to the United States in 1967 and worked in kitchens at Ikaros (the grandfather of Greek restaurants in Baltimore), Jimmy's Seafood, and the now-closed Plaka. He opened the Acropolis with his wife Despina, who runs the dining room with all the hospitality that the public has come to expect from Greek-American restaurants. She always has a smile for the customers. The Avgerinos' son George and daughter Patricia now are involved in the business.
The Lamb Fricasee special, my personal favorite, is an example of the food served by the Acropolis. The dish, which is frequently available, is made of fresh lamb shanks, artichokes, celery, carrots and onions, and is served in a lemon cream sauce with a touch of dill. Avgerinos makes it (excuse me, mom) better than my mother.
The Lamb Chops are always fresh and the portions are extra-generous. Every dish served is tough to finish. The Fried Squid is perfect for sharing. The appetizer is enough for two. The squid is always tender and just the right size. For chicken lovers, the Baked Chicken (half), served with roast potatoes and vegetables, is always correctly prepared. My son prefers the New York Strip and Prime Rib, which have a size and presentation worthy of any steak fine house. . Greeks tend to over season Moussaka (Eggplant, sliced potatoes, choice ground beef and bechamel sauce) and Pastitsio (layers of macaroni topped and ground beef, topped with bechamel sauce). The Acropolis seasons these dishes to perfection -not too strongly.
All desserts are freshly made in-house. The Galaktoboureko (custard wrapped in a filla dough) is just right - not too sweet.
The food at the Acropolis is always consistent. It is flavorful, spiced properly, and the portions are more than filling. As an added bonus, the Acropolis offers reduced price parking on the Signet Bank lot, at the comer of Eastern Avenue and Oldham Street. The upstairs rooms seat 150 for banquets and special events.
Although Baltimore's Greek-American community has its share of opinionated members, I don't think that I'll get much argument in my endorsement of the Acropolis.
Guest columnist Nick Filipidis is the second generation owner of Jimmy's Restaurant, on the square in Fell's Point.
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